I've been home for a while now, I apologize for just getting to this. Here is a recap of the last months in Vietnam.
After leaving Hoi An, we visited Danang and Hue; three nearby cities situated in central Vietnam. Hue's proximity to the National Heritage Site of Hoi An, the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), another National Heritage site; the Phong Nha Caves, access to China Beach, and a preexisting airport lead Mason and I to believe Hue will soon be a booming city for Vietnam. *Note to those with money- buy property now!*
After passing the DMZ the increased poverty rate was overwhelming apparent. Until we reached Hanoi everything was the cheapest we would see through the entire trip. Although the places we stayed were sketchy even for our standards, we never had paid more than $3 for lodging. On one occasion we rented separate rooms which together cost less than a single room south of the DMZ.
We made a detour on our trip North to Hanoi a
nd biked East for a solid day to visit the Phong Nha Caves. The caves are a unique tourist attraction in that they are mostly visited by Vietnamese, on a regular day hundreds of Vietnamese flock to the caves while less than a handful of foreigners drop by. Though it is considered a National Heritage Site, typical rules like silence and no smoking are not enforced, thus the overall experience at the caves was a bit of a shock for both Mason and me, the multi colored lighting of the stalagmites and stalactites were unexpected and quite unwanted as well.
Our pace quickened after the DMZ, without a headwind and fewer mountains we were able to keep a pace solidly over 100 KM a day. After a few days we realized we were quite ahead of schedule and in efforts to stall a bit before entering Hanoi we spent an extra day in Ninh Binh and rented a motor bike for one dollar. After a rainy day of riding without pedaling and countless pictures
with Vietnamese students we were ready to get back on the road.
Hanoi was only a day away. We left in the morning just minutes behind an older German couple who were also biking to Hanoi. We had inspected their custom made South East Asia long distance trekking bikes the day before when renting the motor bike. Soon after we began we caught up with the German couple and passed them on our city bikes. By the end of the day we had made it to the outskirts of Hanoi, close enough to see the city skyline. To remind us of our low quality bikes or simply to stall our entrance into Hanoi just a few more hours my front tire popped. By now we knew what to do and without a moment's hesitation I slipped off the tire while Mason unloaded his bike, gave the tire to Mason and he disappeared with it, in search of a repair man. Nearly three hours later the German couple rode by without saying a word to me, shortly after Mason returned with the patched tire.
Unlike Saigon and most other major South East Asian cities, Hanoi does not have a backpacker's district. Mason and I actually prefer this, as this means we must intermingle with the local Vietnamese. We found a cheap guesthouse in the old quarter a few minutes North of the St. Joseph Cathedral after a solid few hours searching.
We moved around a few times over the next two weeks, trying to find places with better deals. We went to many museums and shows, most notably for me; the Museum of Ethnology and a traditional Vietnamese theater. The Museum of Ethnology was espe
cially interesting having just experienced first hand a large amount of what was presented in the museum. The extensive hill tribe exhibits showed off the villages just north of Hanoi that Mason would be visiting after my departure. After watching the Vietnamese Theater show the hostess recommended we visit a Vietnamese Tea House. Though her directions brought us far from other foreigners and down a few dark alleys we found the tea house and enjoyed a long night of sipping herbal tea for me and honey tea for Mason. The following day we went back to the theater house to thank the girl for the great recommendation, but there was an error in translation and she thought we were asking her out. She accepted without hesitation, but we were able to clear the mixup without creating any obligations.
I am now home, back at work. Mason will be attending Berea College on a full scholarship this fall and I will be attending Marquette University. Overall I spent $6,800* in 230 days, and averaged less than $6.50 in Cambodia and Vietnam. Although I had no serious illnesses while away, Mason did have Dengue Fever while in Thailand and was treated for Rabies in Hanoi after I left after a dog bite.
*Includes flights to London and Copenhagen.
It was our hope to make a presentation to the public while we were both in Vermont. Unfortunately our plans fell through and now Mason is away. I have created a powerpoint presentation, a slideshow, and a photo album, so it is possible that I will present solo sometime this summer.
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