Monday, November 16, 2009

Good Morning in Vietnam

This past year I decided to spend travelling Asia with a friend rather than the more common choice of studying at college. My friend and I spent four months of our interim year bicycling through Cambodia and Vietnam. Although we went into our year not knowing what we would do, we found traveling by bicycle to be a rewarding means of travel and began to create a routine during our bicycling days. At dawn we would wake up, pack our bicycles, fill our water bottles and head out for a days bike. After an hour of morning riding we would stop and eat a small breakfast of a local rice paper snack then continue riding. Midday in Southeast Asia is too hot to bicycle in, so we would spend 11:00am to 2:00pm in the shade napping or eating. After the midday sun we would fill our water bottles and head back out. About an hour before dusk we would find a secluded area to setup camp and, with the last hour of sun, we would find some food to eat for dinner before going to sleep.

About 1,500 Kilometers into our trip we found ourselves riding into the midday sun in the middle of a desert in northern Vietnam. With no trees or villages for miles, our ability to find shade before fainting became less and less likely as our water bottles ran dry. Being blown back by the desert wind and scorched by the midday sun we slowly made our way towards the only object visible, a dot in the distance that slowly morphed into a shack. The shack itself was barely holding itself against the wind, but managed to provide enough resistance to keep its form and provide shade for its four inhabitants.

From the shack emerged a short Vietnamese man wearing old white shorts and an army hat. While beckoning us over, the man called to his wife and twin daughters sending them off on a mission. We approached and were given seats by our exuberant host whose English proficiency was, we promptly learned, poor enough for us to have to use our Vietnamese for any communication. After a brief introduction of each of us, we informed our host of our American nationality.

“American?!”

Our host was briefly surprised, but never dropped his smile. The following conversation roughly translated to this:

“America fought Vietnam in a war you know?”

“Yes, we know.”

Our host then said, pointing to a scar on his left arm, “An American did this to me. It was a very long time ago. When American boys came then, they shot us. Now there are American boys here and I welcome them into my home.”

Our benevolent host then asked us to eat with him, we graciously accepted, as we had no water or food to sustain us to the next town. Motioning to his wife and daughters the three came out with a crock of chicken soup, bowls, and spoons, a project they had been busy with since only moments before we stepped in. We sat with our host and together the three of us ate, my friend and I eating to our fill at our host’s urging. When the crock of soup was nearing empty our host asked us if he should have his wife make more for us, pointing out that he had plenty more chickens to spare. Upon observation, my friend and I noticed the chickens he spoke of numbered a meager two. Disappointed that we turned down his offer of killing another chicken for us, but then satisfied that we had eaten our fill, the head of the home motioned for us to take a nap under his shade.

When the time came to continue our ride we thanked the family as best we could. After our monetary offer of thanks was rejected we attempted offering each and all of our possessions, all were rejected. The father, smiling, thanked us for our gratitude, but told us to continue our journey.

“Go then, be safe. Remember time has changed this land and your land. We were once enemies, but now we are friends. Friends share food and shelter. Go friends, continue on your way.”

We left the man’s home with full stomachs and rested bodies, but more importantly we left with dramatically changed minds. Any worries or preconceptions that being American would endanger us in our travels in Vietnam were torn up in our encounters with this kind man and his family. In our time of need, not only were we given what we needed, but also nothing was expected of us in return. A man who had been physically wounded by someone of our nationality was more generous to us than we had ever been to any person we had even the slightest reason to dislike. How many times have we passed up an opportunity to help others because we didn’t like them? By ignoring the needs of others we encourage hate and close-mindedness. This man promoted peace on that day. As one person he gave all he could to an enemy asking for no return, making his enemy his friend. By following his example of limitless charity we can each spread peace. By listening to a stranger, walking with an enemy, or giving food to homeless man we too can be merchants of peace.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Home Sweet Home


I've been home for a while now, I apologize for just getting to this.  Here is a recap of the last months in Vietnam.
After leaving Hoi An, we visited Danang and Hue; three nearby cities situated in central Vietnam.  Hue's proximity to the National Heritage Site of Hoi An, the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), another National Heritage site; the Phong Nha Caves, access to China Beach, and a preexisting airport lead Mason and I to believe Hue will soon be a booming city for Vietnam.  *Note to those with money- buy property now!*
After passing the DMZ the increased poverty rate was overwhelming apparent.  Until we reached Hanoi everything was the cheapest we would see through the entire trip.  Although the places we stayed were sketchy even for our standards, we never had paid more than $3 for lodging.  On one occasion we rented separate rooms which together cost less than a single room south of the DMZ.  
We made a detour on our trip North to Hanoi a
nd biked East for a solid day to visit the Phong Nha Caves.  The caves are a unique tourist attraction in that they are mostly visited by Vietnamese, on a regular day hundreds of Vietnamese flock to the caves while less than a handful of foreigners drop by.  Though it is considered a National Heritage Site, typical rules like silence and no smoking are not enforced, thus the overall experience at the caves was a bit of a shock for both Mason and me, the multi colored lighting of the stalagmites and stalactites were unexpected and quite unwanted as well.
Our pace quickened after the DMZ, without a headwind and fewer mountains we were able to keep a pace solidly over 100 KM a day.  After a few days we realized we were quite ahead of schedule and in efforts to stall a bit before entering Hanoi we spent an extra day in Ninh Binh and rented a motor bike for one dollar.  After a rainy day of riding without pedaling and countless pictures
 with Vietnamese students we were ready to get back on the road.  
Hanoi was only a day away.  We left in the morning just minutes behind an older German couple who were also biking to Hanoi.  We had inspected their custom made South East Asia long distance trekking bikes the day before when renting the motor bike.  Soon after we began we caught up with the German couple and passed them on our city bikes.  By the end of the day we had made it to the outskirts of Hanoi, close enough to see the city skyline.  To remind us of our low quality bikes or simply to stall our entrance into Hanoi just a few more hours my front tire popped.  By now we knew what to do and without a moment's hesitation I slipped off the tire while Mason unloaded his bike, gave the tire to Mason and he disappeared with it, in search of a repair man.  Nearly three hours later the German couple rode by without saying a word to me, shortly after Mason returned with the patched tire.  
Unlike Saigon and most other major South East Asian cities, Hanoi does not have a backpacker's district.  Mason and I actually prefer this, as this means we must intermingle with the local Vietnamese.  We found a cheap guesthouse in the old quarter a few minutes North of the St. Joseph Cathedral after a solid few hours searching.  
We moved around a few times over the next two weeks, trying to find places with better deals.  We went to many museums and shows, most notably for me; the Museum of Ethnology and a traditional Vietnamese theater.  The Museum of Ethnology was espe
cially interesting having just experienced first hand a large amount of what was presented in the museum.  The extensive hill tribe exhibits showed off the villages just north of Hanoi that Mason would be visiting after my departure.  After watching the Vietnamese Theater show the hostess recommended we visit a Vietnamese Tea House.  Though her directions brought us far from other foreigners and down a few dark alleys we found the tea house and enjoyed a long night of sipping herbal tea for me and honey tea for Mason.  The following day we went back to the theater house to thank the girl for the great recommendation, but there was an error in translation and she thought we were asking her out.  She accepted without hesitation, but we were able to clear the mixup without creating any obligations.

I am now home, back at work.  Mason will be attending Berea College on a full scholarship this fall and I will be attending Marquette University.  Overall I spent $6,800* in 230 days, and averaged less than $6.50 in Cambodia and Vietnam.  Although I had no serious illnesses while away, Mason did have Dengue Fever while in Thailand and was treated for Rabies in Hanoi after I left after a dog bite.  
*Includes flights to London and Copenhagen.

It was our hope to make a presentation to the public while we were both in Vermont.  Unfortunately our plans fell through and now Mason is away.  I have created a powerpoint presentation, a slideshow, and a photo album, so it is possible that I will present solo sometime this summer.  

Thank you for following the blog!

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Happy Lunar New Year Vietnam!

After December 10th we began biking toward the border to Vietnam, the Bavet-Mac Bai border crossing. After our first day of biking east we stayed in Neak Loeang, a town on the east side of the Mekong River. We had to cross the Mekong by ferry, two tickets for bicycle riders cost a total of 6 cents! We barely made it onto the ferry as it was leaving when we got there, it was literally pulling out as we boarded. Halfway across the river a big cart of trash was emptied into the water, Mason and I looked on in shock.
The following day we biked to Svay Rieng. The guidebook, Lonely Planet, told us there was "literally nothing to do" in Svay Rieng. We had an extra day on our visas so we spent a full day there hoping to prove Lonely Planet wrong. It turns out they were pretty much right. I tried going for a run at sunset but was attacked by dogs. I did run my fastest ever as a result of the dogs chasing me. After two nights there we got up early in the morning and biked to the border by lunch. We ate our last meal in Cambodia, rice with a very boney, but strong tasting fish.
Going through the border was frustrating as no one seemed to care about their job, a worrisome first impression of the country. Eventually we got through; Mason seemed to have better luck than I did. Speaking of Mason, he crossed the border without realizing it for a few moments when we were taking pictures of the crossing.
After the border we biked towards Ho Chi Minh City, better known as Saigon, but couldn't make it in time so we stopped somewhere, probably Trang Bang. On the way to Trang Bang we stopped to get water and, after drinking two bottles, the lady filled our bottles back up for us for free. Later when we had decided to stay for the night, a girl working at an Internet place was very kind girl who gave me two names of nearby cheap hotels. This was a nice change after the not so good border experience. We stopped at a small food vendor for dinner and a lady buying fruit translated for us. After the transaction the translator gave us a bushel of bananas, we still don't understand why since we should have been the ones giver her something, perhaps it was a "welcome to Vietnam" gesture.
The next day we again woke early and biked into Saigon. We got there in the early afternoon and got Pho (pronounced fa as in father) at a place with free wifi. We found a place from HostelWorld and used it to get to Bui Vien Street, backpacker district. We then decided to stay in Vietnam for longer than a month and began working on extending our visas. We were able to extend them for an additional 3 months for $25 each. This was a fantastic deal, as the visas originally cost us $35 each for one month. It turns out $25 was the flat government price and the girl working at the travel agency we went to had made a mistake when talking to us, but she liked me so she paid the extra herself. (She has since sent me several emails that I have ignored.)
I contacted Tim Nguyen through Facebook and found that he lives in Saigon but wouldn't be there until Christmas, so we decided to wait for him and spend Christmas and New Years in Saigon then leave. Since we would be in one city for a while and since we were going to be in Vietnam for so long we decided to take some Vietnamese classes. Tim put us in contact with his sister Rose and she showed us around, bought us food, and brought us to awesome live music bars, most notably a place called Acoustic which had some crazy awesome performers. Rose also put us in contact with Thuy An, who became our Vietnamese tutor. We took 12 hours of classes over two weeks. December 26th we moved to Tim's house and stayed until the early morning of January 5th. All this time we also developed a relationship with three girls from a Milk store and three girls from an outing goods store we never bought from.
On December 24th and 28th Vietnam won against Thailand in soccer, giving them the title champion for the first time in decades. The entire city went crazy each night with nearly 5 million people crowding the streets until 4 AM. Most were on motorbikes carrying big Vietnam flags and shouting, honking, cheering, dancing and throwing confetti. The scene was wild and unbelievable each time. I felt jealous I am not from a country that would ever celebrate as one the way Vietnam did.
On January 5th we took the train to Phan Thiet. We stayed two nights because we both had developed colds. We then biked to Bac Binh, we started out in a tropical area with lush rice fields and live stalk everywhere, then by midday we were biking through a desert with nothing for miles but a few 10 inch high cacti scattered around. Then around 3 we were biking around mountains like back home. We were looking for some shade to break under for the hottest part of the day, of course at that time we were in the desert so it was a hard task. We came across a small shack that seemed to be blowing apart in the wind but somehow managed to keep its form. The guys in the shack invited us in and after a conversation half in their poor English half in our even worse Vietnamese they made us lunch and offered us beds to rest on. We continued on and found a cheap guesthouse to stay in. The following morning Mason's front tire was blown so we brought it to be replaced and the guy replaced it for free. That day we biked to Ca Na, pronounced Ka like car Na like none, and stayed at a place right on top of the sea with a great view. As tired as we were from battling the winds on our bikes we pressed on early in the morning but in over 3 hours we had only covered 28 Km due to the winds blowing south.
Eventually we made it to the very touristy area of Nha Trang City. We found a place to stay for $5 a night and stayed there, I got sick the first night and vomited twice during the night so we decided to stay a few days to allow me to get back to full health.
After Nha Trang we biked to Dai Lanh, a place famous for its beach and fishing, where we spent the night. It seems all of the hotels in Dai Lanh were owned by one man thus giving him a monopoly which he happily took advantage of. It wasn't a pleasant stay as it was expensive and the people we encountered were not so kind. In the bathrooms of our hotel were two magazine size pictures of western girls in bikinis, very strange.
The next day we made it to Quy Nhon where we stayed four nights and two days. It was nice there, we stayed at Ha My hotel, which was a bit on the expensive side, but we were able to enjoy this city for very cheap as there are no hagglers and such in the beautiful town. It is really quite a wonder why such a nice city has no tourists, but the lack of tourists is perhaps my favorite part of the town.
We made it to Hoi An on the 24th. It rained that day and we got soaked biking in, fortunately it was lunch time during the rain and we were able to sit out most of it. It was the first day since we left Saigon that it rained.
The following day was Lunar New Year's Eve. We went down to the riverfront and saw a magnificent lantern display. Sadly we didn't bring the camera, just Google Hoi An lanterns and you'll see it.
At midnight we went back to our guesthouse and the owners gave us candy and other sweets. We also saw the incense ceremony at midnight. A table is placed at or in front of the entrance of the house/store and on the table are offerings, rice, a drink in a cup, sometimes candy, fake money, and cigarettes and so on. Then candles symmetrically and burning incense. Then the eldest I assume would grab a handful of incense, burn it, raise it and lower it while facing the table from the house side once on the left, right and middle. Then hold it in front and probably pray. Then they would count at least 12 sticks of incense and place the remaining on the table. With the 12 they would split them into 4 or more groups of 3 and place them around the entrance symmetrically. I think we were very fortunate to see the ceremony.
That wraps things up for now, thanks for keeping with it, sorry about the long wait between blog entries. I’ve got my tickets home; I’ll be flying into Boston March 26th.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Journey North











































































































































































"Enchanted". Sean must be dreaming of Love's first kiss. Unfortunately, we were in the same bed that night.















































































































































































































































A view from the Capitol Guesthouse

Saturday, November 29, 2008